You arrived here on a prerendered HTML shell — view source and the heading is in it. Navigation from now on is client-side.
Every link above changes the URL without a page load. This entire application is one .spa.tsx file.
Found by building this demo on a path-prefixed deploy, and since fixed: the nav links above render with this site's full /zigapagos/… address, resolved at build time rather than only in the click handler. View source or hover a link and you'll see the real destination — so these links also work with JavaScript disabled, and a copied link is the address it says it is.